RACISM ON THE TRAIN

09:00, 31 December 2013.  South of Freiburg, in Germany, on the train to
Rome.  Two German policewomen awaken my travelling companion from a nap.

One stands, hands on hips, blocking the aisle.

The other wants to know who my friend is and where he is going, and why.
He is a twenty-three year-old master's degree student at thje University of
the Saarland, in Saabruuecklen, Germany.  I am a professor of English
at the same university.

My companion is from India.

Questions, examination of student identity card, German
residency permit, passport.

"Is the suitcase yours?"

He answers, "It is ours."

A cellphone call to someone, somewhere.

My companion's documents are returned to him.

I ask for an explanation.

"He is leaving Germany, crossing into Switzerland."

I ask if she wants to interrogate me, see my papers.

"No.  I am not interested in you.  Only him."

She and her companion turn and walk away.

A man from further up the carriage comes back to our seats.

"I am sorry you had to go through that offensive procedure.  Please,
please accept my apologies."

My friend shrugs, and says that it is okay.

The man shakes his head.

"It is not okay.  I was about to about to ask her why she didn't
question me, when your friend spoke up."

My friend smiles.

"It's stupid," the man says, "and offensive.  And it's just because
you don't look like us."

I nod in angry agreement.

"But you do look like us," the man continues.  "Only you
have darker skin."

"You must go through this a lot," he says.  "I'm sorry."

The man shakes my companion's hand, and returns to his seat.

I look at my friend.

"This is the first bad experience I have had in six years of
living in Germany."

We pass through a railyard full of DB engines, and several
flatcar-loads of Volkswagens.  We are still in Germany.

An announcement tells us we must change trains at the border.

I am very disappointed, and angry.  Angry to find that such
+conduct--such discrimination--is allowed and practiced in my
adopted country.  I feel hurt, wounded, betrayed.

Racism, in Germany.  I am ashamed for Germany, and
ashamed of myself for not objecting.